Basic Photography Tip #7: Don't Place your Subject Exactly in the Middle
The
composition goal of photography IS NOT to place the subject in the center
of your frame. However, as with most "rules," there are exceptions.
Occasionally, it does make sense to have your main subject in the center of your picture (as in the sample to the left). When, you wonder? Usually when you want to make an image deliberately symmetrical, perhaps to emphasize its formality or when the background is irrelevant.
Because most cameras still focus (either manually or automatically) on the center, many beginners have the erroneous impression that good photographs should be composed with the main subject at the center.
When you are setting up a picture, focus in on the
most important part in the middle, and then recompose the shot so the
main subject is off center. How far off center? A basic photography goal
on composition is using the rule of thirds for where to place the main
subject. 
If you drew vertical and horizontal lines dividing your rectangular field of view into 9 evenly spaced rectangles, any one of the 4 points where the lines intersect is the optimum point to place your subject.
Word of caution... don't become a photographic robot! Use the rule of thirds when it makes sense, but not automatically for every subject!
Once you begin to move beyond basic photography,
you will start to develop an intuitive feel for things. When that happens,
the best advice any photographer can give is to let the subject of the
picture determine its own composition. If you're not sure, take several
photos placing it in several spots; bearing in mind the right place is
almost never in the middle
Digital Photography Training Tip #8: What is "Depth of Field" and Why Should I Care?
Depth
of Field (DOF) is one of those rare animals in photography... a basic
photography term, yet complicated to understand and use.
So, that's why we've included it here in digital photography training.
To understand it, you need to realize one particular fact in which your eyes have been deceiving you.
When you look at most photographs (any photo where
all the objects are not EXACTLY THE SAME DISTANCE and DIRECTION FROM YOU),
objects that are at varying distances from the camera appear to be in
focus.
Take this photograph for example. The pelican and the trees all appear to be in focus.
In reality, only the pelican is in perfect focus. Here is the basic photography truth: there is only one point in any photograph that is in perfect focus.
The exception to this rule is if there are more than one object in the same plane and distance from the camera. In that case, all objects in the same plane and distance from the camera would be in focus.
Other objects in the photograph which seem to be in focus, technically are not. They are within what could be called "the zone of sharpness," and hence they appear sharp or, "in focus."
The Depth of Field is the distance in front of and behind the exact focus point. This is the area which seems to be in focus.
You can tell the depth of field after a photograph is printed by determining the range of objects which are in focus.
For example, if the closest object in a particular photographic print that seems sharp is at 5 feet, and the most distant object is at 15 feet, then the depth of field extends from 5 to 15 feet from the camera.
Realize that depth of field is not an absolute measure, as it depends on the size of the print, the viewing distance and the visual acuity of the observer.
Why
are we spending all this time on depth of field? Without an understanding
of how to blur what you want and not blur what you want sharp, you will
only produce the desired results about 1/2 the time.
When you see an object/subject that you want to capture (and, have in focus), you can do so by making the subject remain in sharp focus while the background is blurred (or "thrown out of focus").
Or, you can photograph the same subject and blur it, while keeping the background in focus.
Two obvious examples involve taking a picture of a beautiful rose in front of an unsightly garbage dump. You would want to blur the background as much as possible, while the rose is clear and sharp.
On the other hand, a photograph of your family in front of the Grand Canyon loses most of its impact if you can't tell it's the Grand Canyon, right? In that case, you want to have BOTH foreground and background as sharp as possible.
So, how do we create the effect we want? There are
several factors that go into depth of field: lens focal length, camera-to-subject
distance, and 
aperture.
We will focus on the basic points for achieving these 2 different result.
To have everything in the photo SHARP:
For landscapes and large groups, use a normal or wide angle lens (not telephoto) and as small an aperture as possible (F22 for example).
To have the main subject sharp while the background is out of focus:
Typically for portraits, use a mild telephoto lens (minimum 100mm) in combination with a very large aperture (example: F/2.8). If a telephoto is not handy, use as large an aperture of whichever lens you are using.
Digital Photography Training Tip #9: What
is important to know about the Aperture?
The camera's aperture is the hole through which light enters the camera.
Since
every camera has an aperture, it doesn't technically belong under the
"Digital Photography Training" heading; however it is important
to understand how it impacts digital photography.
Apertures are measured using a relative scale, called "F numbers" such as F/4, F/5.6, F/8, F/11, etc. The smaller F numbers refer to larger openings to let in light. The larger the aperture (smaller F number) the less time the camera needs to take a picture. For any particular light level and ISO, there is a range of "equivalent exposures" which will produce the same digitally exposed photograph.
For example, the following combinations of how long the shutter is open (shutter speed) and aperture opening (f number) will produce the same exposure:
1/500 at F/4
1/250 at F/5.6
1/125 at F/11
1/60 at F/16
Although the above settings will produce the same exposure, the results
will often look rather different. As an example, if you are photographing
a moving car, 1/500 at F/4 will probably give a fairly sharp result because
the aperture is only open a very short time.
However, if you use the slower shutter speed of 1/60 at F/16 you will get a blurred result, since the car has moved quite a distance in 1/60th of a second.
Part of the challenge involved with digital photography training is that there are so many different digital cameras available. Since each camera uses different modes, controls, and technologies, digital photography training has to stay somewhat generic.
Many simpler cameras do not allow you to control the aperture independently. However, they may offer different "program modes," such as a "sports" or "action" program.
These programs use a very fast shutter speed, typically between 1/500 and 1/2000. Check your manual for specific details.